BEFORE YOU LEAVE
We recommend preparing a seam sealer for emergencies. All major seams are factory taped.
Camping in conditions which cause the original seams to be continuously exposed to heavy rain, runoff, or ground level water, apply extra seam sealing to seams which have 2 or 3 layers of different fabrics stitched together. Seams on uncoated nylon or mesh panels don’t need extra treatment. There is no need to seal the seams in the roof or the factory taped seams. We recommend sealing of leashes and reinforcement points.
Over time seams could experience delamination. Simply clean the seam and apply seam sealer that can be purchased at most outdoor stores.
Apply sealant to the inside and outside of all exposed seams. Several thin layers will work better than one thick layer. Read and follow manufacture’s instructions.
SET UP YOUR TENT PRIOR YOUR FIRST TRIP
To ensure you are familiar with set up and the tent is in proper condition.
WHILE YOU’RE CAMPING
CHOOSING A SITE
Avoid low areas, which are likely to collect water. Always choose a site with good drainage. Inspect the site and remove any sharp or protruding objects that could damage the tent floor.
All tents need to be staked down to keep them from blowing away. Securing the tent by placing heavy objects inside is not just adequate.
STAKING TENT BODY
Once the tent body is erected, stake it out before the fly is put on. This enables you to square the tent up to ensure that the fly goes on properly and that the seams align with the frame. Pull the base of the tent taut between each web stake out loop or ring & pin. Make sure that all corners are square. It is important that you don’t stake the tent out too tightly. You will know it’s too tight, if the door zippers cannot be easily operated.
DRAPE FLY OVER
With the tent properly staked, drape the fly over the frame, attach its tent connection points and stake down any pullouts. The above is not applicable for tents with external pole sleeves and inner tents attached to the fly-sheet.
Do not attempt to remove the stakes by pulling on the tent becket loop, as this could cause the fabric to tear. The best way is to pry on the stake itself.
STAKING IN SPECIAL CONDITIONS
Sand: Long broad stakes with plenty of surface area are ideal in loose, sandy soil.
Hard, Rocky, or Frozen Soil: Steel stakes work well in these conditions. Store steel stakes separately. If stored with your tent, the sharp edges can cut the fabric. Steel stakes can also leave rust stains, which might damage your tent.
Snow: Use “dead man” anchors: bury objects (branches, tent bags, or stuff sacks filled with snow) that have a great deal of surface area. Tents can also be tied to snowshoes, skis, or ski poles, which are stuck in the snow.
When high winds or a storm are predicted, do not count on staking alone to keep your tent secure. Depending on the model, your tent fly has built-in loops or rings at optimal guy out locations. It’s important to put in the extra time guying out your tent. Correctly done, it can save your tent during exceptional weather.
• Attach parachute cord to the loops/rings and stake them in the ground three or four feet from the edge of the tent. If staked too close to the tent, wind can cause an upward pull that could dislodge the stakes.
• Make sure that the top fly is securely attached to the framework underneath. Ties, hook and loop- and Velcro closures, or dogbanes and elastic loops are typical fasteners for this purpose.
• If your tent does not have loops or rings for guy outs, attach guy lines 1/3 to 1/2 of the way up the framework on the main sidewalls. This enables the guy line to support the lower section of the pole, while the upper pole can flex and deflect wind gusts. It is also a good idea to run two cords at an angle from the side of the guy out. This will prevent all movement, except toward the anchor. The idea is to get the guy lines to work together through opposition. See illustrations below:
CONDENSATION OR LEAKAGE
CONDENSATION AND VENTING IN POLYESTER AND T/C TENTS
Through perspiration and breathing, an adult gives off about a 1,5 litres of water overnight. If it cannot escape, the water vapour condenses to liquid. Most often, water found in the tent is a result of this condensation rather than from the tent leaking. As you probably know, there are many causes for condensation. Besides moisture in the breath of the inhabitants of the tent, condensation can appear due to cooking in the tent, the proximity to bodies of water (lakes, rivers), dampness in the ground of the vestibule or damp clothing in the tent or vestibule.
When warmer air on the inside of the outer tent comes in contact with the somewhat cooler surface of the outer tent fabric, it condensates: the fine water molecules, because of the ever so slightly cooler surface contract and combine themselves to droplets. Particularly when it rains and the rain cools down the surface of the outer tent, condensation can develop, even when there are no people inside the tent. The air inside a tent quickly gets warmer than the air outside it and then it does not take long for this moisture to develop. On a thin matter like our fabrics, condensation is only the visualisation of physical laws that we have, materializing on the side of warmer air.
Especially with our family-models where the extended vestibule covers a larger area of potentially damp ground condensation may occur. We naturally have tried to eliminate the occurrence by incorporating vents of various construction, but for vents to work you need certain circumstances, and these are not always given.
For the same reason one can get damp areas under a foam pad. Here, body warmth rises the temperature of the pad, which in turn passes this on to the groundsheet of the tent. This is naturally much cooler from the ground and dark moisture stains or even wet patches show up. This is absolutely not always a case of leakage but rather one for a small cloth to wipe off the moisture and get on with your daily routine.
Eureka! HIGH/LOW VENTILATION
Given the importance of proper ventilation to reduce condensation, Eureka! uses High/Low venting in most of our tents. This allows cooler air in through the low vents and warmer, moist air up and out through the high vents. High/Low venting is accomplished within the inner tent via roof vents, doors and windows. It is important to vent the vestibule. Unvented, it can inhibit airflow into the tent.
Eureka! tent vestibules profit from the ability to “short sheet” by means of zippers & toggles and staked vestibule pull outs create a bellowing effect. Most Eureka! tents are equipped with a High/Low venting door. This design allows increased airflow into the tent from the bottom. Open the low vent/window to admit cool air, forcing the warmer air out through the high roof vents. When rain and wind prevent the low vents from being opened, the high door vents can still be used. Fly overhangs or vestibules protect it.
GENERAL TENT CARE
Caution with insect repellents: DEET found in many insect repellents can damage tents as can fuels. Sweep the tent floor daily to prevent damage from stones. Use a footprint whenever possible to minimize condensation. The side with coating should face-up. Try not to wear hard shoes inside your tent. This might damage coating on the footprint. Do not keep food inside a tent. Hungry critters will chew through tent fabric in search of food.
Ultraviolet light damage to tent fabric is caused by excessive exposure to sunlight. While our fabrics are UV resistant, any synthetic fabric is susceptible to UV degradation. UV damage will cause nylon and polyester to become brittle and tear easily. We recommend that you use the rain fly even on clear days. It acts as a sunscreen to the tent. A rain fly is both easier and less expensive to replace if damaged. UV damage can be minimized by erecting tents on sites with low exposure to direct sunlight.
Do to the nature of tent fabrics, color can transfer from darker to lighter fabrics when the two fabrics are in contact over time when wet, damp or exposed to the combination of moisture and high heat. This does not affect the tent’s performance. To prevent/ minimize color transfer, always make sure your tent is completely dry prior to packing and storage.
All major seams are factory taped. Over time seams could experience delamination. Simply clean the seam and apply seam sealer that can be purchased at most outdoor stores.
• Never let tent poles snap together as this can damage the pole end.
• Do not drop tent or pole bags on their ends and do not bounce a tent bag on its end to get the tent out. These actions may cut the shock cord and damage the pole ends.
• The aluminium frame may bend slightly and take a “set” through usage; this normally does not affect the performance of the frame.
• Broken pole sections can be fixed with included pole repair sleeves. See illustration below:
WHEN YOU GET HOME
• Make sure the tent is completely dry, then store loosely rolled, in a dry, cool place. To prevent dust from collecting on the tent, cover it with a cloth. This allows the nylon/ polyester fabric to breathe.
• Ideally, the tent poles should be stored in their fully assembled state. This reduces the tension on the shock cord, prolonging its life.
Clean the tent by setting it up and wiping it down with a mild soap (liquid hand soap) and lukewarm water solution. Rinse thoroughly and dry completely. Never use detergent, washing machines or dryers because they can damage the tent’s protective coating and seams. After cleaning, be sure the tent is completely dry, especially the heavier, double-stitched areas such as the seams, before storing or mold and mildew are likely to grow.
Clean the tent poles with a cloth and lubricate them with silicone spray. This is especially necessary after Oceanside camping trips to remove salt spray so the poles don’t corrode or stay gritty.
Clean the zippers with a quick dip in water and then dry them off. This is especially important if you’ve been camping in a location with sand/dirt. If you don’t clean the zippers, the sliders will wear out and eventually the teeth will become inoperable.
WARNING: KEEP ALL FLAME AND HEAT SOURCES AWAYFROM THIS TENT FABRIC.
• This tent meets the flammability requirements of the CPAI-84 standard. The fabric may burn if left in continuous contact with anyflame source. The application of any foreign substanceto the tent fabric may render the flame-resistantproperties ineffective.
• DO NOT operate any device that burns fuel insideyour tent. Combustion consumes oxygen, and canproduce dangerous levels of carbon monoxide that could lead to serious consequences.
WHAT IS COVERED
Eureka! Europe warrants to the original purchaser that its products are free from defects in material and workmanship, for the period of two years after the date of purchase, except as qualified below
WHAT IS NOT COVERED
Eureka! shall not be responsible for the natural breakdown of materials that occurs inevitably with extended use (e.g., Ultra Violet (UV) light damage on tents, exhausted zippers), or defects caused by accident, abuse, alteration, animal attack, storm damage, misuse or improper care. Zippers are excluded from warranty.
THERE ARE NO OTHER EXPRESS WARRANTIES BEYOND THE TERMS OF THIS WARRANTY. IN NO EVENT SHALL Eureka! BE LIABLE FOR INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES.
WHAT Eureka! WILL DO
If after inspection we find that a product failed due to a manufacturing or material defect, we will repair or replace the product, at our option, without charge.
HOW TO OBTAIN WARRANTY SERVICE
Contact your qualified Eureka! Dealer or request by the e-mail site contact form a Return Authorization (RA) Code and shipping address. Return the product (together with your purchase receipt). We do not accept unauthorized return shipments. After examination, the Eureka! Dealer will send the returned product to us for warranty handling. We do not accept unauthorized return shipments.
If your Eureka! product needs service or repair due to normal wear and tear, animal attack, accident or some other reason that is not covered under the warranty, we will provide prompt service at minimal charge. We require that products which will be returned for any repair are properly cleaned, according to our recommended care instructions. Please return your product or component that requires repair (e.g., tent fly), along with our completed warranty return (RA) form. Clearly mark or tag the area on both the RA form and the product in need of repair.